GOLDEN DAWN: EMILY KATHARINE BATES
KAT BATES’ TRAVELS (1) UNITED STATES. GOING BACK EAST AND HOME August-September
1886.
Sources:
The main one is A Year in the Great Republic
volume 2 of 2. Emily Katherine (sic)
Bates. London: Ward and Downey
1887. I refer to this in the text as
GR2.
Twenty years after the trip, Kat published a
kind of spiritualist memoir, Seen and Unseen. Emily Katherine (sic) Bates. London: Greening and Co. 1907.
In it she added more information on the seances she had been to during
the Year, and the spiritualists she had met.
I refer to this in the text as S/U.
Kat’s own source: on GR2 p1 she warns travellers
not to put too much faith in statements made in Appleton’s Guide. I think she put too much faith in her own
copy! - at least to start with, but by the time she was heading for Yellowstone
National Park she was very annoyed with the lack of practical information in
it.
Kat’s most likely to have been using Appleton’s
General Guide to the US and Canada, issued every year from 1879 to 1901; and
its specialist guide to the North East of the USA, issued yearly from
1853. However she might also have been
able to pick up a copy of the 1876 guide to the American cities and the 1877
guide to winter resorts; and there was a specialist guide to the US south and
south-west, published 1882.
Source: wikipedia on Appleton’s Guides, which
were published from as early as the 1840s by the firm D Appleton and Co of New
York. The firm began by issuing railway
guides but in 1848 it issued its first tourist handbook. The 1848 handbook only covered the USA but
Appleton and Co later published guides to Canada, Europe and Latin
America.
QUICK INTRODUCTION TO EMILY KATHARINE BATES
Kat Bates was born in 1846, the youngest child
of a Church of England cleric. Both her
parents had died by the time she was 10.
When she was 25 she inherited enough of an income to make her
financially independent. She was already
widely travelled by 1885 but had never ventured quite so far, or for so long,
before. She was ready to rough it if
necessary, and for a particular end in view, but she wasn’t really a
pioneer. She usually stayed in hotels;
with friends or relations; or with people she had a letter of introduction
to. She isn’t good on dates!
For more on Kat’s life see my life-by-dates
files.
Probably AUGUST but possibly SEPTEMBER 1886 -
DENVER TO CHICAGO
Kat chose to take the “Burlington short route”
from Denver to Chicago across Nebraska and Iowa; as it was shorter than the
alternatives. It was the worst rail
journey of all her American travels.
Reaching Chicago at the end of two days’ travel, she stayed in the
Palmer House hotel.
Source for Kat’s route to and arrival in
Chicago: GR2 pp263-69.
Comments by Sally Davis: without Miss Greenlow,
her companion of the last 10 months, it’s likely that Kat would have found any
train journey a bore; but this one was particularly bad. The train was packed. There weren’t enough ladies’ washing
facilities for the number of women and children who needed to use them. The day-time temperatures were in the 90s
farenheit; but whenever they opened the windows everyone was smothered by a
“fine black dust” - soil lifting off the Nebraska plains. The alcohol on board was kept locked up all
the way across Nebraska as it was a ‘dry’ state; by Iowa there was hardly any
drink left on board at all, alcoholic or not, as people quenched their thirst
in the heat. Kat didn’t remember much
about the route, except that the scenery in the Platte River valley was flat
and dull; and that they had dinner at Lincoln Nebraska. She did find one woman amongst her travelling
companions she could chat with about “books and oratorios”. Although the woman seemed happy, Kat thought,
bringing up her four children, Kat shuddered for her, living in “some little
western town in Illinois state” with a husband who ran a business making
“mechanical tools”.
Arrived in Chicago after a journey like that,
Kat was not in the mood to appreciate the Palmer House hotel. Its rooms might be “magnificent” but she
thought it was poorly run and too bustling to be comfortable; and the bedrooms
were a long hike from the public rooms.
She was intimidated by the “hundreds of men” who hung around the hotel’s
offices, “shuffling, smoking and talking”; and rather than take on the office
staff over one particular complaint, she went back to her room and tried –
unsuccessfully – to give a message about it to an “unintelligent black
waiter”. The waiter who wouldn’t or couldn’t
take her message was one of the few black people Kat mentions in GR; they come
off slightly better at her hands than the Indians, in the books, but not
much.
Sources:
Kat’s “Burlington short route”:
The earliest mention of it that I could find was
via www.newspapers.com, in the Kearney Daily Hub of Tuesday 23 October 1894; p1
mentioned that the route went from Billings Montana to Omaha Nebraska; but the
report gave me the impression that it had only just opened.
A reference to it from much later – Interstate
Commerce Communication Reports 1951 – calls it the Missouri-Pacific
Burlington short route.
The locked-up alcohol in Nebraska:
I couldn’t find any web page that said that
Nebraska was a ‘dry’ state in the 1880s, though website www.ohama.com and several others said that it was the first state to go ‘dry’
in the prohibition era: 1917, a year before the rest of the US. Until 1917, Omaha was a brewery town.
I could see several web pages charting the history
of temperance campaigning in the Nebraska from the mid-19th
century.
The Palmer House Hotel, which still exists, see www.palmerhousehiltonhotel.com though the photographs at that website are not
of the building Kat stayed in. The
hotel’s wiki says that it was the first hotel in Chicago to have elevators, and
the first to have electric light and telephones in the guest rooms. The seven-storey, iron and brick-built hotel
Kat stayed in was built in 1875; it was demolished in 1923 and a new Palmer
House hotel erected on the site.
Chicago’s Grand Hotels by Robert V Allegrini; p8
- it was built by Potter Palmer, the founder of the Marshall Fields dry goods
company.
AUGUST or possibly just into SEPTEMBER 1886 -
CHICAGO
Kat didn’t spend long in Chicago but she did
manage some sight-seeing. She went to
Lincoln Park and on the way back was driven past the grand houses of Dearborn
Avenue and through the tunnel under the Chicago River. She visited the Union Stockyards and wished
she hadn’t.
Source for Kat’s itinerary: GR2 267-74 with the
longest section on the Stockyards. GR2
pp274-283 on tipping and the lack of porters on the railroads.
Comments by Sally Davis: Kat described Chicago
as a city of parks but Lincoln Park, along the shore of Lake Michigan, was the
only one she mentioned and perhaps the only one she stopped at during her short
time in the city. She particularly liked
Lincoln Park’s trees and flower beds but found the Lake “too big to be
beautiful”. The only house in Dearborn
Avenue that Kat mentioned was the only wooden one, the mayor’s house, which had
escaped the big fire due to having vacant lots on either side. Kat’s driver was proud to tell her that the
stone buildings erected since the fire could compete with any in New York or
the City of the London; and Kat did agree that the post office, court and
government buildings were “all magnificent” and that several of the churches
were “handsome”. I don’t know whether
she saw this going on but Kat mentioned the Chicago habit of people sitting out
on their front steps on hot afternoons, on chairs and cushions, with carpets to
keep the cold of the stone off their feet.
The tunnel Kat’s driver took her through must
have been the LaSalle Street tunnel; it seems to have been the only one in use
in 1886.
Kat had been told by many people that she must
go and see the Union Stockyards to see a pig go in one end and sausages come
out the other. Though they were quite a
tourist attraction – Rudyard Kipling and Sarah Bernhardt visited them –
visiting them doesn’t seem to have been well organised. It took an hour and two trolley buses for Kat
to get there “through mile after mile of wretched, squalid-looking suburbs” and
to get around inside the yards, you had to walk. Kat was traumatised by the sheer numbers of
animals and the scale of the killing.
She could see, too, that the killing was being done “hastily and inefficiently”
so that the pigs were being thrown into boiling water, not yet dead. “To make the satire complete” she said, a
society which campaigned against animal cruelty had an office outside the Yards
for the reporting of incidents of cruelty.
Writing up the visit for GR2 a few months later she admitted that the
preparation of lobsters, veal and foie gras were cruel too. She also admitted she had not been well
prepared for what she saw at the Yards – before her visit, she had never seen a
pig being killed at all. Still, she felt
she was right to be “sickened and disgusted” by it all, and to argue about it
later with friends in England. She
devoted several pages in GR2 to denouncing it and I think that the horror of it
coloured her view of Chicago as a whole.
She doesn’t mention becoming a vegetarian as a result, though.
Kat finished her remarks on Chicago with a long
section on the minefield that was tipping in American restaurants and
hotels. She warned her readers that in
the US, the bill for your stay in a hotel never included any charge for
service; and that every member of staff that did anything for you expected a
tip in cash, so that the cost of the tips could amount to considerably more
than the bill issued by the management.
As she travelled about Kat was told “over and over again” by Americans
that there was no need to tip anyone.
Her own experiences told her the opposite. She and Miss Greenlow tried an experiment of
not paying out tips, at one particular large hotel (which she didn’t name!). They got “black looks” and “interminable
delays”, their breakfast arrived cold, plates went “uncomfortably near our
heads” on their way to the table, and their beds weren’t made. When they then demanded napkins at dinner,
Kat discovered that a dinner napkin could be “a soft missile” when hurled into
your lap. From what Kat writes, I think
the experiment may have been intended to last a week; but they gave it up after
48 hours.
One last warning Kat felt she should give her
readers was about the lack of porters on the American railroads, which had
created particular problems for Kat and Miss Greenlow, two women travelling
long distances with heavy luggage. Kat
wanted to praise the kindness of her fellow passengers, who so often struggled
with their luggage for them. One in
particular had come to their aid at New York central station late at night,
tackling “half-a-dozen shouting, bellowing Irish-American drivers”, each of
whom had grabbed one suitcase or bag and was making off with it in a different
direction. Kat felt a bit remorseful at
having previously avoided this particular rescuer during their train journey,
because he was so obviously drunk!
Sources for Chicago:
I couldn’t find specific websites for Lincoln
Park. Nor for Dearborne Avenue though
usheritage.com had entries for particular houses which have been renovated
recently.
The wikipedia pages for the Wash Street and
LaSalle Street tunnels and Chicago’s later cable car tunnels show that Wash
Street was shut between 1884 and 1888; and the first cable service only began
in 1888.
Wikipedia for the Union Stockyards, made
possible of course by the westward expansion of the railways, without which Kat
and Miss Greenlow’s itinerary during 1886 would have been impossible. They opened in 1865 and were finally closed
in 1971. As early as 1870 the Yards were
handling 2 million animals a year; it was 9 million by 1890. The Yards covered 375 acres and until 1900
the waste from them was just sent into Lake Michigan to contaminate the
drinking water.
At www.npr.org, the website of National Public Radio, I found an article posted
by Anne Bramley in December 2015: Food for Thought: How Chicago’s
Slaughterhouse Spectacles Paved the Way for Big Meat. Bramley argues that the opening of the
Chicago stockyards was the first step in the industrialisation of food
production.
AUGUST and INTO SEPTEMBER 1886 – CHICAGO,
NIAGARA, TORONTO, MONTREAL
From Chicago, Kat took the Michigan Central
Railway to Niagara for one last look at the Falls. This time she stayed on the Canadian side of
the border, at the Clifton House Hotel.
The day she was there, though, the weather was bad – rainy and cold –
and she was glad to leave and travel on to stay with friends in Toronto for a
week. At the end of that week, she went
along Lake Ontario to Kingston on the Grand Trunk Line, and then by steamer
into the St Lawrence seaway and through the Thousand Islands to La Chine. Then it was a 20-minute journey by train to
Montreal. Kat stayed in the Windsor
Hotel, where by chance she met some acquaintances from her stay in Boston. She had time for a couple of trips by
carriage around Montreal and some friends took her to a summit from which a
fine view of the city could be seen; Kat particularly mentioned the Victoria
Tubular Bridge. She visited the
newly-finished St Peter’s cathedral and took the lift inside the parish church
of Notre Dame to see the biggest bell in the world. She went to Bon Secours market, but didn’t
stop to shop; and then up the hill to the Bon Secours church. Coming across a friend in town, she went with
her to see the Villa Maria convent school.
And she was “beguiled” into going to the Protestant cathedral to hear a
preacher considered to be one of the most powerful speakers in the modern
church; but she wasn’t at all impressed by his sermon that day.
Source for Kat’s itinerary and visits while in
Montreal: GR2 pp285-299.
Comments by Sally Davis: Kat doesn’t give
details of the route her train took from Chicago to Niagara, but it would all
have been on the Michigan Central Railway, which owned the Canada Southern
Railroad; and she won’t have needed to go on a ferry anywhere. She could have travelled the whole way from
Toronto to La Chine by steamer but the weather forecast made her decided
against it. Though the train journey
along the coast of Lake Ontario was “rough and wretched”, Kat felt she’d made
the right decision when she met up with the passengers who had gone on the steamer: they had had an
even worse journey, with some of them telling Kat that crossing the Atlantic
had not been so bad. The steamer then
“tossed and creaked and swayed” its way through the Long Sault Rapids on the St
Lawrence, but Kat felt that was not as alarming as her trip through the Nile
cataracts on a sailing boat.
Montreal was Kat’s favourite Canadian town and
she’d planned her itinerary to allow time for a few days there. It was an unexpected bonus to meet up with a
group of acquaintances made in the US in 1885; they were in Montreal for an
Episcopalian Church synod and were all staying at the Windsor Hotel. The person Kat came across by chance was a
woman she had struck up an acquaintance with on the train trip from Niagara to
Toronto. Kat devoted several pages of
GR2 to this woman, a widow, whose only child had recently been killed in a
climbing accident in Colorado. Kat
admired the optimism and enthusiasm with which she could still think of the
future despite apparently having so little to live for.
Sources:
The Michigan Central Railway.
See its wikipedia page and also a useful
history-by-dates at www.michigan.gov/documents/mdot/Michigan_Railroad_History_506899_7/pdf. These web pages make it clear that from the
very start – as early as 1836 – the railroad was a web of lines connecting
major towns in Michigan, Indiana and Ontario; so I still couldn’t work out the
route Kat’s train took. Maybe a reader
could enlighten me.
The Clifton House hotel. At www.niagarafallstourism.com is the history of a later
building. The wikipedia page on Clifton
House says that the first hotel built on the site was from 1833. It was bought in 1866 by John T Bush, of Buffalo
New York State; and burned down in 1898.
At www.torontopubliclibrary.ca/detail.jsp?R=DC-PICTURES-R-593 is a Bill issued by the
Clifton Hotel in 1853. At the top of the
bill is a drawing of the hotel by National Orr.
This might show the hotel exterior as it was when Kat stayed there. However, at www.nytimes.com I found an item from 15
June 1865 announcing the hotel’s reopening after an “extensive” refit. It wasn’t clear from the snippet I could
read, whether the renovations were inside, outside, or both.
Grand Trunk Railway: see its wikipedia
page. It was incorporated in 1852 to
connect Montreal and Toronto but by the time Kat was using it, its lines
extended all over the provinces of Quebec and Ontario, into Michigan and over
most of New England. As part of that
expansion, the Victoria Bridge in Montreal – which Kat looked down on from the
hill above the city - became the first bridge to be built across the St
Lawrence. The company’s headquarters
were in London; with administrative offices in Montreal. For a detailed history, see www.railwaywondersoftheworld.com/grand-trunk-railway.html which has a photograph of
the Victoria Tubular Bridge; I think it’s the one that Kat saw in 1886, the
modern one was built in 1898.
The ship Kat joined at Kingston was owned by the
Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company, formed in 1875 when the ailing Richelieu
company was taken over by the St Lawrence River Steam Navigation Company. Kat didn’t think much of the Company’s
services to its passengers: mealtimes aboard were “wild beast feeding
scrambles”. See
www.maritimehistoryofthegreatlakes.com
Steamboats on the Lakes by Maurice D Smith 2005
p52.
Canada’s Entrepreneurs: From the Fur Trade to
the 1929 Stock Market Crash by Réal Bélanger, John English and Andrew Smith 2011 p312.
The Windsor Hotel still exists. Its wiki has a photograph of the outside from
around 1890; and the rotunda-style lobby from 1878, the year the hotel
opened. It was built by a group of
Montreal-based businessmen and was the first ‘grand hotel’ in Canada. A gala held shortly after it opened was the
most glittering social occasion in the city’s history so far, with Princess
Louise and Lady Dufferin (wife of the governor-general) among the guests. After rather a shaky start financially the
hotel soon became the centre of Montreal’s business and social life.
Kat’s St Peter’s Montreal:
See www.ncregister.com, the web pages of the National Catholic
Register for an article by Joseph Pronechen, posted October 1997: A Bit of Rome
in Montreal. And www.pc.qc.ca, the web pages of Parks
Canada; the building is in its Directory of Federal Heritage.
The cathedral Kat called St Peter’s never was
named after St Peter; but it was conceived as a copy of St Peter’s in Rome,
down to having a reproduction of Bernini’s baldacchino in it, and the name has
stuck. The inspiration for it and the
planning of it came from Ignace Bourget, from 1840-76 the second bishop of the
Roman Catholic arch-diocese of Montreal.
The outside was built between 1870 and 1878; work on the interior was
going on while Kat was in Montreal and was finished in 1894. In Kat’s day it was dedicated to St James the
Greater; now it is the Cathédrale Marie Reine du Monde.
Notre Dame Montreal:
There’s a wiki on this church, designed in the
Gothic Revival style by the Anglican, New York based James O’Donnell. It was built on the site of a smaller church,
as the largest church in North America; the outside was constructed between
1824 and 1829 but the lavish interior, with many wood carvings, took far
longer.
Notre Dame de Bon Secours has a wikipedia page
with a good set of pictures. I hope Kat
appreciated that the idea to build a church on that site came from a woman,
Marguérite Bourgeoys, who has since been canonised. The church Kat visited was built in 1771 over
the ruins of the original one that Bourgeoys would have known. It’s a pity Kat didn’t have time to stop at
the Bon Secours market as that too is a fine building: see www.marchebonsecours.qc.ca for a short history and
modern photographs. It was inaugurated
in 1847.
The Villa Maria convent still exists, see www.villamaria.qc.ca. There’s an article on it, with descriptions
of school life in the mid-20th century, in montrealgazette.com:
Montreal’s Villa Maria School in the 19th Century; by Helen
Wolkowicz, posted February 2015.
The
school is housed in a Palladian style mansion built in 1804 for James
Monk. It was the offical residence of
the governor-general of Canada in the 1840s before being bought by the Sisters
of the Congrégation de Notre Dame and opened as a school – with teaching in
both French and English – in 1854.
Because she was going to say she didn’t think he
was worth his reputation as a preacher, Kat was careful not to identify the
clergyman-orator she was persuaded to hear at the English cathedral in
Montreal. She didn’t name him; and
although she said the speaker was a “Canadian bishop” he was not necessarily
the bishop of Montreal, particularly with a synod going on in town. Just in case Kat did mean the bishop of
Montreal, there’s a wiki which lists all of them. It indicates that the incumbent in 1886 was
William Bennett Bond, who later became the Primate of All Canada. There was no reference in the wiki to him as
an orator. He is remembered for his work
with young people; and for bringing order to the chaotic financial affairs of
his diocese.
SEPTEMBER 1886 – TO NEW YORK AND THE VOYAGE HOME
Kat left Montreal by train after the most
thorough baggage check she had experienced in North America. Her route to New York took her past Lake
Champlain and Lake George. She spent a
night in Albany and an hour in Saratoga; and then went by boat down the Hudson
River. She had allowed herself one day
in New York, and spent it fulfilling a promise to go to Coney Island with a man
she had met during her stay in the city earlier in the year. Her friend took her to Manhattan Beach and
Brighton Beach. They went to stare at
the famous Elephant but didn’t climb up inside it; and the ‘Burning of Moscow’
firework display had been cancelled due to bad weather. But they had an “excellent” farewell dinner
at the Manhattan Beach Hotel. Then her
friend went with her to see her onto the White Star Line’s SS Celtic, where she
met up with the lady’s maid of her travelling companion Miss Greenlow, who
would be sailing back to England with her (her employer was on her way to
Australia).
SS Celtic left New York early the following
morning. Kat had expected to be seasick
all the way across the Atlantic but to her surprise, she wasn’t; so she was
able to make friends with two of her fellow passengers. The ship reached Liverpool late in the
evening, and Kat’s year in the Great Republic was over.
Source: GR2 pp299-311.
Comments by Sally Davis: Kat was furious about
the customs search she and her fellow travellers endured at Montreal
Station. Each passenger was asked to
open “every trunk, bag and bundle”. As
usual there were no porters to be found ,so they had to drag their pieces
luggage down from the pile of it themselves and kneel on a stone floor to get
them open.
As a result of the rude start to her journey,
Kat was not in the best frame of mind for enjoying the rest of the day’s
travel. She admitted Lake Champlain and
Lake George were “very beautiful” but there’s a touch of burn-out, I think,
about her preferring Lake George largely because it was small, a “decided
contrast to the general run of huge American lakes, which are virtually small
seas”. She might have approached the
journey with more enthusiasm if it had been happening a couple of months
earlier: she would have liked to give her readers first-hand information about
the summer social season in New England.
By September, though, it was almost over. She had also been told that to make any real
splash in it, a woman had to have three sets of white dresses ready to wear
each day; and her mind boggled at the money and the laundry that would be
necessary to achieve that. So she didn’t
bother much with Saratoga, one of the summer season’s centres (especially for
the racing set). And I think she didn’t
visit Newport Rhode Island at all, though she did give her readers some information
on it, as currently the most fashionable of the various New England summer
resorts; and also the most expensive, with “cottages” (Kat’s quotation marks)
charging anything from $500 to $5000 for the few summer weeks’ hire.
Kat’s night at supposedly the most famous hotel
in Albany did not improve her mood, it was “both noisy and dirty” and she was
very glad to leave it early the following morning to get the boat down the
Hudson. The riverboat, however, was definitely
a cut above the best that the Richelieu and Ontario Navigation Company had
provided a few days before. And from
West Point (though not before it) the river valley was “very fine” - though not
to be compared with the Columbia River valley Kat and Miss Greenlow had
travelled along several months before.
The scenery made Kat sorry that she had had to turn down invitations by
two sets of friends, to stay at Nyack, and at Yonkers; but she now had no time
left.
One last evening in the incongruous surroundings
of Coney Island’s fun-fairs and then Kat was off to take possession of her
cabin on the SS Celtic. She found that a
number of cockroaches had settled in before her, but they all disappeared when
the ship left port. Most of her fellow
passengers Kat dismissed as “chiefly men, and of a strongly Conservative turn
of mind”. She preferred to spend her
time with Mrs Parnell, mother of Charles Stuart Parnell, “a real type of
gentlewoman of the old school”; and a young Englishman, “nephew of a well-known
historian”, who was returning to live in England after failing to settle in
California. Though she liked Mrs Parnell
very much, Kat wasn’t quite at ease with someone so closely related to “an
Irish agitator”. She worried
particularly about using as a chair a heavy wooden box in Mrs Parnell’s cabin,
which – Mrs P told her - had lost its
key. Kat thought it very suspicious and
wondered about dynamite. When they
reached Liverpool, the customs officials also found it suspicious and Kat
wondered about dodgy documents – but she doesn’t say whether anyone managed to
get it open!
Sources:
Lake Champlain and Lake George, which both have
a wiki.
They are both at the northern end of the Great
Appalachian Valley and have always been a border – originally between the
Abenake and Mowhawk Indian tribes; lately between the US and Canada and between
New York State and Vermont. Both were
important strategically during the American War of Independence and in
1812. The Champlain Canal, which opened
in 1823, linked New York with Montreal by water. Lake George became popular as a summer
getaway for the wealthy of New York and was lined with their country
estates. It was a popular subject for
artists – see the wiki, www.lakegeorge.com, www.visitlakegeorge.com though none of them show
any of Georgia O’Keefe’s paintings of it.
See its wiki for Saratoga and Saratoga Springs,
but there’s still a Saratoga summer season, so there are lots of websites
focusing on it. Two battles were fought
at Saratoga during the American War of Independence and after the second,
British General John Burgoyne surrendered his troops to American General
Horatio Gates. At www.edwardianpromenade.com there’s an article by Evangeline Holland,
posted April 2009, which details Saratoga’s social calendar in the 1870s and
1880s.
Albany:
Kat was careful not to name the hotel she stayed
in in Albany but I think it must have been the Kenmore Hotel, on the corner of
North Pearl Street and Columbia Street.
It was built in 1878 for Adam Blake, a black entrepreneur whose father
had been a slave. He died in 1881 but
his wife Catherine continued to run the hotel until 1887.
See the hotel’s wikipedia page and a wiki on
Downtown_Albany_Historic_District, where it’s the only hotel mentioned in the
section on the 19th century.
It was designed by local architect Edward Ogden in a style described as
“Richardsonian Romanesque”; he also designed a Queen Anne style extension built
in 1891.
Kat’s visit to Coney Island:
There’s plenty of coverage of Coney Island on
the web as it’s still such an important day-out for New Yorkers. Its wikipedia page says it was the site of
the original Dutch colony of Nieuw Amsterdam, and that its development as a
series of beach resorts had begun as early as 1829. The elephant had not been on the seafront
long when Kat decided against going inside it: it stood there from 1885 to
1896. Apparently there was a brothel
inside it.
Coney Island: 150 Years of Rides, Fires, Floods… by William J Phalen 2016
and Coney Island: The People’s Playground by Michael Immerso 2002 both
detail the development of the Manhattan Beach Resort by Austin Corbin in the
1870s after he had bought what eventually was 500 acres of Coney Island and a
series of railroads to bring people from Manhattan and Brooklyn to the resort
he was developing there. The Manhattan
Beach Hotel, designed by J Pickering Putnam, was the centre of the development,
built on a huge scale 150 yards from the sea, with a frontage of 669 feet. On the seaward side there were lawns and
flower beds with free brass band concerts.
Kat’s last dinner in the US won’t have been a quiet affair: the various
dining rooms at the Hotel could seat up to 4000 people at one time. There’s a small photograph of the Hotel at www.coneyislandhistory.org and a postcard of it at www.mfa.org.
Website www.coneyislandhistory.org says that Corbin’s intention had been to usurp
Saratoga and Newport Rhode Island as the place the rich and famous went for the
summer. However, it was never a real
rival to them.
White Star Line’s SS Celtic:
The White Star Line owned two ships called SS
Celtic at different times, both of which have a wikipedia page. The ship Kat travelled on was built for the
Line in 1872 at the Harland and Wolff shipyard in Belfast. A report in the New York Times of 23
May 1887 covered a collision, 350 miles off New Jersey, between SS Celtic and
the White Star Line’s SS Britannic; at the time of the crash, SS Celtic had 870
passengers on board, in cabins and steerage.
This original SS Celtic was sold to the Thingvalla Line, in 1893 and its
name was changed, to Amerika.
Kat’s Mrs Parnell - Delia Tudor Stewart Parnell
(1816-98):
See the wikipedia page of Charles Stewart
Parnell (1846-91) whose political career was ended when he was cited as
co-respondent in the divorce of Katharine Wood O’Shea and her husband. See also www.wikitree.com and www.thepeerage.com for family history
details. And Judy Leslie’s article on
Delia Parnell at www.for-the-love-of-Ireland, which has a reproduction of an
early portrait of Delia.
I don’t know how much Kat actually knew about
Mrs Parnell, but as she had relations in Ireland who probably knew Delia, perhaps she knew
more than she put down in her book. Delia
Tudor Stewart was the third child of Admiral Charles Stewart and his wife Delia
née Tudor. She was born in Boston but
grew up on the family estate at Bordentown New Jersey. She was considered a beauty, and was better
educated than most girls of her time. In
1835 she married the Anglo-Irish landowner John Henry Parnell (died 1859) of
Avondale county Wicklow. They had 11
children but separated in 1852. Delia
Parnell’s views on Irish independence had not gone down well with her husband’s neighbours in Wicklow. After her husband’s death, she and her
daughters Fanny and Anna were active in the pro-independence Ladies’ Land
League and she also gave shelter to nationalists evading the police. So Kat was right to be unnerved by the box
that had lost its key!
Delia Parnell’s death was tragic: while she was
visiting Avondale, her dress caught fire and she died of her injuries a day
later. The only descendant of Delia
Parnell that I could find at www.thepeerage.com was Clare O’Shea, daughter
of Charles Stewart Parnell and Katharine O’Shea while Kitty was still married
to her first husband.
AUTUMN 1886 – BACK IN ENGLAND
Describing herself as a “female Columbus”, Kat
ended her book by telling her readers that her year in North America had left
with her “the mark of some wider growth in experience and tolerance”. In a call that is very apposite to these
Brexit-dogged times, she urged her readers – singling out the English in particular
– to set aside their “insular prejudice, ignorant obstinacy of opinion
and...dogmatic conventionality” and go beyond their usual destinations of
Europe and the Colonies to travel in America.
She herself had “never spent a happier nor more profitable year” than
the one she had just spent, meeting the Americans (some of them, at any rate)
at home.
Copyright SALLY DAVIS
20 April 2018
Find the web pages of Roger Wright and Sally
Davis, including my list of people initiated into the Order of the Golden Dawn
between 1888 and 1901, at:
www.wrightanddavis.co.uk
***